Makalia River Hits Rock Bottom

The Makalia River rises in the Eastern Mau escarpment and flows east, and then north, into the southern end of Lake Nakuru. It is a key water source, together with Rivers Njoro and Nderit that drain into the lake from the Mau. En route, it drops into the Lake Nakuru basin via the scenic Makalia Falls, a popular tourist site in the Lake Nakuru National Park. The permanent flows of the river have traditionally guaranteed a great viewing experience for visitors, with the roaring falls providing accompaniment to birdsong, the bark of baboons and other wildlife sounds.


But dark clouds of uncertainty hang over the future of the Makalia River. In recent years, it has dried up on various occasions, as a visit to the falls over Easter 2011 revealed.

Waterfall - no more

Downstream - dry river bed

It is clear that efforts to rehabilitate the Mau need to be stepped up, urgently, to protect the river and the Lake that depends on it...

Baboon In Chief

Jungle Throne - King Surveys Domain

A full-grown male olive baboon (Papio cynocephalus anubis) is a fascinating creature. It stalks through its habitat with purpose, King of all it surveys and unafraid of man or beast. Its long snout holds powerful jaws and long, wickedly sharp canine teeth. Its barrel-like chest suggests real power, and its long arms are as adept at climbing as they are at snatching food from the unwary tourist.

I came face to face with this magnificent specimen, the dominant male of the troop, at the aptly named Baboon Cliffs view point in Lake Nakuru National Park. The shaggy beast engaged me in a brief staring contest. Realising that I had nothing to offer, it quickly lost interest and calmly resumed its survey of the picnic site, searching for unguarded food items.


Baboons are interesting animals to observe but also genuinely dangerous if not treated with the respect due any wild animal. They are age and gender sensitive: they will confront women and children without hesitation, but will usually keep a respectful distance from adult men. Interestingly, they can distinguish gender regardless of clothes worn!

Baboon Viewing Tips:

• Observe them at a respectful distance
• Do not offer food under any circumstances
• Do not leave food items unattended
• Never leave your car unattended with doors or windows open

Pelican Brief

great white pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus)

Pelican takes to the sky in Lake Nakuru National Park

Waterbuck, Majestic

common waterbuck antelope (Kobus ellipsiprymnus)

The open glades within the forests of Aberdare National Park teem with wildlife, such as this magnificent male waterbuck.

Namunyak Twin Peaks

This striking hill overlooks the Namunyak Conservancy in Samburu East, about 75kms from Isiolo. There is a valley here which is cool and scenic.

Wonderful Weaver

A white browed sparrow weaver (Plocepasser mahali) soaks in some mid-morning sun in Mweiga, Nyeri.

Longclaws, Neck Games and Newborns

 
Even dull and overcast days can be fun. Nairobi National Park in October is cool, cloudy and wet, but a full day in the park can be very rewarding. An early treat served up was seeing a yellow throated longclaw bird up close. This colourful beauty posed calmly by the roadside as I took a picture, setting the tone for a great day's viewing.

supermodel: yellow throated longclaw

The park's central plains teemed with wildlife: kongoni, wilderbeest, Grant's grazelle and giraffe grazed and browsed placidly under the cloudy sky. I was treated to a great show by a pair of giraffe - they  swayed their necks, gently intertwining and separating in a slow, rhythmic ritual. And when it was over, they went their separate ways.

neck games - the first move

scoring with flexibility

silent whisperings

parting of ways

At the Athi Basin dam in the east, a lone zebra frolicked in the shallows as a flock of marabou storks looked on in bemusement. The zebra was clearly having the time of its life, dashing and splashing about.

splash dash

Towards the middle of the day the sun emerged to share its warmth and reveal something special: a new born Thomson's gazelle was taking its first faltering footsteps as its mother looked on.

baby tomi: finding a footing in life

In the south, later in the day, raptors were in evidence, and I spotted a tawny eagle, perched and ready.

king of the sky: the tawny eagle

While on a stroll at the Hippo Pools I saw a terrapin lounging on a log in the river, and got close enough to observe its wickedly sharp claws.

serrated hinged terrapin: river lounger

Driving through the forest in the west as the day drew to a close, I stopped to enjoy a beautiful, flaming sunset. By this point I was thoroughly satisfied with the day's viewing.  Unbeknownst to me, the park had saved its best (and most terrifying)  treat for last...

Totally focussed on capturing the sunset, I was oblivious to the presence of an adult black rhino less than 20 metres away. The brawny beast, reputed to have the sharpest hearing, was clearly irritated by car, camera and me, and CHARGED. I was confronted with a photographer's worst dilemma: to hold fast, take the picture of a lifetime and suffer a mangled car (or worse) or flee and live to fight another day. Discretion won out and I zoomed away as the sun dipped below the horizon and darkness claimed the sky...

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