NAIROBI PARK: Falcons & Goshawks

16 November 2008

The heavy rains that have pounded Nairobi over the past couple of weeks have somewhat dampened the mood for outdoor nature activity. Shrugging off the weather-induced malaise, I spontaneously decided to head for Nairobi Park for a quick late afternoon game drive. After three whole weeks away, I had high hopes of viewing something unusual; a pride or lions perhaps, or some rare bird not seen before…

It was 5.p.m when I drove into the park, and right away I saw a female olive baboon limping along, nursing a badly injured forelimb. I wondered what had caused the injury – a fall? a fight? Nature can be harsh sometimes.

After the sad sight of the baboon, I was immediately cheered up by a trio of speckled mousebirds perched on a leafy bush.

Speckled mousebirds

Knowing that I had only a limited amount of time before sunset, I had to choose my route carefully, if I was to maximise the game viewing. I hit upon what I thought was a brilliant plan – staking out the Hyena Dam (S 01°20.301 E036°48.640), a waterhole that usually has an assortment of birds and large herbivores.

The abundant rains have transformed the usually brown savanna grassland into a green carpet. Watching the tall grasses swaying gently in the wind is very relaxing - the city hustle and bustle seems very far away. As I drove along, I glimpsed lanky giraffe and brawny buffalo over the tall grass. Black-shouldered kite were abundant, and I counted five within a short stretch of road, perched on low bushes or hovering in the air searching the ground for dinner. The perching kites are edgy birds, and tend to fly off if you get close.

Driving on, I saw a rufous-naped lark perched on an acacia stump right next to the road, and stopped to take a look – I’d never been this close to a lark. Interestingly, the bird seemed equally curious about me and didn’t immediately fly off.

Rufous naped lark - profile

A short distance away, I spotted another lark perched on an acacia twig, and again got very close without alarming the bird.

Rufous naped lark – side view

By this time it was getting late and I drove straight on to Hyena Dam. To my great surprise there was no wildlife visible there! Clearly my ‘brilliant plan’ was not particularly smart… Disappointed, I headed towards the park exit gate along a different route, hoping to see some more game on the way out.

As I drove on, I noticed and stopped to admire a large acacia tree festooned with weaver bird nests… and spotted a beautiful but unfamiliar raptor (bird of prey), perched calmly on a branch amid the sharp thorns. Somewhere, in another part of the tree, an unseen, agitated-sounding bird kept up a continuous racket. The raptor, however, seemed completely unperturbed by either my presence or the noise from the other bird. Riveted, I gazed at the bird for several minutes. Occasionally, it would favour me with a contemplative stare. Finally, in a burst of energy, the bird took flight, leaving me enthralled in its wake. (I later confirmed that it was a Gabar Goshawk – which is known to raid weaver bird nests...)

Acacia tree with weaver bird nests

Gabar Goshawk (Immature)

By this time it was after 6 p.m. Thoroughly contented with this first encounter, I was happy to call it a day and drove on. About 100 metres further on, I spotted another unfamiliar raptor perched on an acacia. The bird waited just long enough for me to take a picture in the rapidly fading light before taking off. A check of my bird guide later confirmed it to be a European Hobby Falcon.

European (Eurasian) Hobby Falcon

Elated, I left the park with the last light of the day, reflecting on the thought that a short nature visit can still be richly rewarding.

-Ends-

Mount Longonot: A Dormant Volcano

1 NOVEMBER 2008

Mt. Longonot is a dormant cone-shaped stratovolcano found in the rift valley. At 2,776 metres A.S.L, it is the most prominent feature on the landscape in the southern rift valley area around Naivasha.

My friend Philip and I had been itching for a real hiking/mountain expedition, and chose Longonot as our destination. It is close to Nairobi (about 60kms), accessible (smooth tarmac all the way), and offers great scenery. We set off early (at 7:30a.m) and used the Nairobi-Mai Mahiu-Naivasha road which winds its way down the lower escarpment through a forest of candelabra (Tree Euphorbia). There are a number of great viewing spots along the escarpment section, from which Longonot can be seen in all of its glory.

Candelabra trees with Mt. Longonot in the background

View of Mt. Longonot from escarpment

Driving north-west along the Mai Mahiu-Naivasha section, the mountain looms ever closer, and stirs up a sense of excitement at the impending climb. The volcanic nature of the mountain can be deduced from the ‘corrugations’ that become apparent as you get closer, sharp v-shaped gulleys which run top-to-bottom along its slopes. This feature gives the mountain a dramatic texture.

Corrugations on mountain’s slopes

A short stretch of dirt road branches off the main road and leads to the Mt. Longonot National Park main gate (S 00°53.336’ E 036°28.479’, 2,156 metres A.S.L.) which has a mini shop, ablution block and benches under acacia trees where one can relax. The park entry fees are:

-Kenya Citizens: Adults Kshs. 100 Children Kshs. 50
-Residents: Adults Kshs. 500 Children Kshs. 250
-Non-Residents: Adults US$ 20 Children US$ 10

By 8:30a.m. we had started our hike, and were enjoying the warm early morning sun. The mountain’s slopes are bedecked with leleshwa bushes, whistling thorn acacia and coarse grasses. A steep but not overwhelming gradient encourages you to keep your head down and focus on the rocky trail a few metres ahead.

Whistling thorn acacia

Rocky trail

An observant eye will be rewarded with unusual sights - we spotted a chameleon shuffling along on the ground and moved in for a closer look; our attention was clearly unwanted and in a surprising burst of speed the creature scrambled up a nearby tree, changing colour as we watched!

Chameleon before

Chameleon after

After a 2 hour hike we made it to the top of the trail, 2,567 metres A.S.L., a climb of just over 400 metres from the base. From here it becomes clear that Longonot is essentially a cone with a hollow core that forms a crater. The circular rim of the crater is almost 2km in diameter, and the more robust climbers can enjoy an extended hiking adventure by walking around the narrow rim along a well-used trail.

The scenic rewards of this climb are manifold, with magnificent views of the area on offer. The highest point of the mountain is a rugged peak that overlooks the crater. Lake Naivasha can be seen a few kilometres to the north-west, its blue waters providing a beautiful contrast to the greens and browns of the rift valley landscape. There is a feeling of great tranquillity here.

High peak

Lake Naivasha – cool blue

Looking skywards, we notice that a bank of clouds has formed an arc, mimicking the shape of the crater rim, a necklace of white against the clear blue sky.

View of the east from crater rim – scuttling clouds

The abundant biodiversity on the outer slopes of the mountain continues over the rim and into the crater floor. A short stroll along the rim reveals three types of flowers and a black and white striped bee. Swallows swoop and dart overhead at high speed, on the hunt for the many flying insects to be found here – these agile birds are always on the move.

Flower and bee

There are wisps of steam that can be seen inside the crater, evidence of the vents powered by the volcanic activity under the mountain, whose last eruption is thought to have occurred in the 1860’s. It is a VERY long sheer drop from the mountain’s rim down the inner walls to the crater floor, rendering it inaccessible.

View of crater from rim

Refreshed by the mountain’s beauty and tranquillity, we begin our careful descent, enjoying the view of the landscape on the way down. Longonot is a popular destination, and at this time of day (around 11:30a.m.) we meet many climbers on the way up – it is quite hot though, and we appreciate the wisdom of climbing early.

The descent – late climbers toil in the midday heat

At the lower elevations, we begin to notice the large herbivores; there are giraffe, zebra, kongoni (hartebeest) and eland aplenty. You can see much more on the way down, as there is a better field of view.

Curious giraffe

As we approach the trail’s end, a bird’s persistent call catches our attention. On closer inspection we identify the source as a bronze sunbird, which promptly flies off to another tree. A prickly pear cactus bush signals the end of the climbing trail. This is an intimidating plant due to its dense growth and very long and sharp spines, but also beautiful – a red flower bud can be seen nestled deep in the bush.

Bronze sunbird

Prickly pear cactus bush

At the gate area we rest at the outdoor benches and take stock of our hike, and revel in the sense of achievement. We notice that there are lots of birds here. Cleverly, a log into which a small shallow metal basin has been embedded serves as a bird bath at which various species of birds take turns to have a drink and a cooling dip. From our bench we observe birds at the birdbath and in the surrounding trees, including superb starling, speckled pigeon, speke’s weaver, rufous sparrow and laughing dove, among others.

Speckled pigeon

Speke’s weaver

A chestnut sparrow is our last sight as we depart.

Chestnut sparrow in acacia tree

Mt. Longonot is a place of many wonders, and a great destination for sporty types and wildlife lovers alike.

Climbing Tips:
Clothes: light cotton t-shirt, comfortable shorts or lightweight track bottom
Shoes: well-fitting hiking boots or sneakers with good grip; heavy socks
Water: carry AT LEAST 1 litre of water
Headgear: hat or bandanna
Eyewear: sunglasses
Balance/Support: a stout walking stick - gives extra stability on steep slopes

Backpack: with padded straps for comfort (keeps hands free for climbing)

-Ends-