A Paradise Found

19 OCTOBER 2008

A lazy, sunny Sunday provided a great opportunity to explore a place I’d been keen to visit, Paradise Lost in Kiambu.

A mere 15-minute drive from Nairobi city centre, this is one of the most accessible nature-oriented recreational destinations near the city. Simply drive onto Thika road, branch left at the Muthaiga roundabout onto Kiambu road, drive on a further 5kms and find the turnoff onto a dirt road on the left (for the GPS savvy, coordinates are S 01° 12.357’ E 036° 49.916’). Follow the well signposted road through a vast coffee farm to the Paradise Lost main gate (S 01° 11.420’ E 036° 49.535’), where the ticket office is located. The entrance fee is Kshs. 250 and Kshs. 200 for resident adults and children respectively, and US$ 10 for non-residents.

The signage at the gate promises picnic/camping sites, waterfalls and stone-age caves.

My first impressions are favourable: the view from the gate is of a gently sloping valley covered with lush green grass on which well-fed camels and horses graze calmly. To the east, the hump-shaped Mt. Kilimambogo dominates the horizon.

Camel grazes on lush grass

A playground area resonates with the laughter of children at play as they enjoy swings and slides– this is a child-friendly environment.

Lower down the valley, a copse of trees partially obscures the view of a large water body and inspires immediate curiosity. I stroll in this direction, resisting the distraction of an ostrich in a large enclosure on the way.

The water body turns out to be a large dam that is fed by a river. There are plenty of visitor ‘bandas’ , open-sided roofed structures with benches and tables along the dam’s nearside shore, and a basic restaurant-cum bar facility provides an assortment of meals and drinks. Many of the visitors, mainly family groups, were preparing their own barbecued lunches, and the air was rich with the welcoming aromas of roast chicken, beef and other meats.

There is a boat hire facility, and for Kshs. 50/= per person on weekends (free on weekdays), a group can take a boat and ‘self row’ on the dam.

Boats for hire

I opted to hire a guide with the boat, and enjoyed a leisurely chauffeured circuit of the dam.

View from the boat

There’s lots of bird-life on the dam as well as on the shore, and I observed little grebe, long-tailed cormorant, malachite kingfisher, common sandpiper and yellow-billed duck.

Long-tailed cormorant

Common sandpiper

A highlight of the boat tour was observing Speke’s weaver birds up close building their nests – a feat of advanced, environmentally friendly engineering using renewable resources!

Speke’s weaver

Under construction - Speke’s weaver builds nest

After a very enjoyable boat ride I strolled upstream to the 50-foot waterfall, around which there are lots of trees, particularly Fig (the Mugumo tree so beloved of Kikuyu fables).

Waterfall

There is a cave system behind the waterfall, from which I enjoyed the unique experience of viewing the area through a curtain of water.

Behind the waterfall

The caves are well lit and an interesting place to poke around. I explored them without the benefit of a guide and thus missed out on an explanation for the 'stone age' historical context, something I’ll be sure to do next time.

Stone-age caves

Satisfied with what I had experienced, I elected to call it a day, although there was so much more still to see.

At over 50 acres in area, Paradise Lost is a hidden treasure with a mix of charms that will appeal to a wide cross-section of recreation seekers - I’ll need several visits to fully experience all that it has to offer!

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Salaita Hill - Squirrels, Parrots & Lovebirds

10TH OCTOBER 2008

A three-day weekend provided the opportunity to venture further afield than usual, and we chose a camping holiday in Salaita, Taveta District, over 450kms south of Nairobi.

Departing on Friday morning, we used the Nairobi-Machakos-Kola-Wote-Makindu-Voi route, which is longer but more scenic than the more commonly used Nairobi-Makindu-Voi route for the first leg of our journey. A leisurely drive saw us arrive at Voi in the early afternoon, where we stopped for fuel and a tasty roast chicken lunch. The last 100km leg of the journey is the Voi-Mwatate-Taveta road which branches off the Nairobi-Mombasa highway and heads due west, bisecting the Tsavo West national park. The 20km Voi-Mwatate section of this road is tarmac, but the rest isn’t: a vehicle with high ground clearance and robust suspension (4x4, tour van, etc) is recommended.

Our destination was Mr. Shoko’s farm at Salaita Hill, about 10kms east of Taveta town near the Kenya-Tanzania border. We arrived late afternoon after a bumpy but scenic drive. This semi-arid area is characterised by large baobab trees, acacias, thorn bushes and savannah grass.

The 15-acre farm is mostly undeveloped: only a small part is used for subsistence farming and the rest is rangeland for Mr. Shoko’s goat herd. The area is rich in wildlife, especially birds, and within a few minutes of our arrival we had seen a fork-tailed drongo and superb starling. The farm has stunning line-of-sight views of Mt. Kilimanjaro to the north-west and the Pare Mountains and Lake Jipe to the south-west.

Fork tailed (common) drongo
View of the Pare Mountains

A stunning sunset capped the day and a moonlit night quickly descended.

A Salaita sunset

On Saturday we awoke to the sight of a pair of namaqua doves – the male’s black bib and striking red/yellow bill are unmistakable.

Namaqua doves (male & female)

The rest of the morning was spent in relaxed fashion, watching the birdlife that resides on or visits the farm. A large bucket under a tree serves as the watering point for Mr. Shoko's goats, and provides the focal point for the many birds we saw on the farm. Fischer’s lovebirds, mourning doves, white headed buffalo weaver, African orange-bellied parrot and red-billed quelea were among the species viewed.

Fischer's lovebird

White-headed buffalo weaver

African orange bellied parrot - male & female

Later on, Mr Shoko gave us a guided tour of the farm and its environs, and we took in the sights and sounds of the area. He pointed out the deep erosion gulleys that are a common feature of the area, and informed us that livestock overgrazing was a key factor in this problem – local pastoralists in the area maintain very large herds of cattle.

Scars on the land - erosion gulleys

As we strolled along it became apparent that Salaita Hill is only a short distance from the farm. Imagining the panoramic view from the hilltop, I asked Mr. Shoko if we could climb it. In hushed tones, he revealed a spooky local legend – the Hill is haunted! ‘Salaita’ is an Africanisation of ‘Slaugher Hill’, named for the site of a bloody World War I battle between British and German forces in which many lives were lost. It is said that the ghosts of the dead inhabit the Hill. No climbing, then…

Later, after a drive to the vibrant Taveta town, we settled in for a laid-back afternoon. Interesting sights included squirrel, grey-headed sparrow, lilac breasted roller, pale chanting goshawk, white-bellied go-away bird and yellow spotted petronia.

Cheeky squirrel nibbles on a snack

Yellow spotted petronia

There’s lots of insect life as well, and a dragonfly was obliging enough to pose for a picture.

A dragonfly poses calmly for the camera

A late afternoon stroll on the farm was rewarded with the sight of a Nubian woodpecker, a fitting end to the day’s wildlife viewing.

On Sunday morning, the early risers among us enjoyed the sight of a brilliant savannah sunrise.

A Salaita Sunrise

After a hearty breakfast, as we prepared to break camp, we saw crested francolin and red billed hornbill. When asked about the profusion of birdlife on the farm, Mr. Shoko informed us that we had barely scratched the surface: there were many more species to be seen!

Red-billed hornbill

Out of time, we bid a reluctant adieu to our kind host and embarked on our return journey, a highlight of which was the sight of a male and female pair of Von der Decken’s hornbills.

Von der Decken's hornbill (male)

It was a memorable trip, and one we’ll repeat often. And maybe even work up the nerve to climb that haunted hill…

-Ends-

Nairobi Park - Eland, Crocodile & Plovers

5th October, Nairobi National Park

We got an early start to the day by getting into the park by 7a.m. We spent over 8 hours there and were rewarded with a rich game viewing experience. One target was to explore the uncommon areas of the park, and we searched the park map for places we hadn't visited before. At 117 square kilometers in area, there are many such places! It turned out that there was a game count going on that day, so there was lots of human activity in the park as well.

We started with the Hyena Dam, a small pond ringed with tall reeds, and always a great place to view birds. Our first sighting was a flock of long tailed cormorant perched in a nearby acacia tree. We saw common moorhen, malachite kingfisher, African jacana, blacksmith plover, crowned plover, 3-banded plover and black crake.

Long tailed Cormorant

Blacksmith Plover

Crowned Plover

After an hour of tranquil bird-watching we moved on to the open plains in the central part of the park. Here we saw wilderbeest, zebra and a flock of vultures at a zebra carcass - probably a lion kill. There were at least three species of vulture there, including a Nubian (lappet faced) vulture. We were also lucky to witness the majestic sight of a solitary secretary bird stalking through the tall grass.

Wilderbeest

Secretary bird

We spent some time at the Hippo Pools, a picnic site-cum nature trail along the banks of the Athi River, and took a short stroll along the river banks escorted by a park ranger. Highlights here included a pair of Egyptian geese, a green-backed heron (a first for us!) and a noisy flock of Fischer's lovebirds. We saw several giraffe browsing at a distance - easy to spot due to their height and size!

Egyptian geese

Green-backed heron

The Rhino Circuit in the S. Eastern part of the park was one area we hadn't visited before. The circuit comprises a track through dense bush and acacia trees. At one point the track reaches the steep banks of the Athi River, which forms the park's southern boundary. This is a very tranquil place - you feel truly at one with nature here.

Rhino Circuit river bank

On an acacia tree by the river bank we saw a troop of vervet monkeys playing and grooming each other - they seemed to be quite at home and are probably resident in the area.

Vervet monkeys

From the Rhino Circuit we drove east to the Athi Basin dam, a largish water body near the eastern spur of the park. We saw many species of birds and animals there, including crocodile, zebra, impala, spoonbill, sacred ibis, black-headed heron and marabou stork, among others. The wildlife is abundant here!

Nile crocodile

Common zebra

As we left the dam we came across a broken-down tour van with two foreign tourists and a local driver, who asked us to ferry his passengers back to the main gate - we dutifully obliged of course. One of the tourists, and American gent named Russ, showed me pictures of black rhino he had taken on his camera only a short while before, along the same route we had followed -we had just missed them!

Later, as we drove along the middle plains area on the return leg of our drive, we spotted a herd of Eland and a black-shouldered kite. It was a good way to end the game drive...

Eland

I'm looking forward to the next visit. Soon...

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14-Falls Thika

1ST OCTOBER 2008

1st October, a Wednesday, was the Muslim Idd ul Fitr day and thus a public holiday. Planning a mid-week outing is always a challenge; you can't travel too far or you'll suffer mid-week fatigue, and many of the well known scenic locations are quite far away. The 14 Falls in Thika fit the bill nicely for a short, fun, excursion.

Thika is about 45kms N. East of Nairobi on smooth tarmac. The 14 Falls are a further 20kms away, mostly on tarmac, with only the last 5kms or so being a motorable dirt road.


We set off late morning and arrived at the gate to the Falls area at about 1 p.m. An access fee of Kshs. 100/= ($1.30) for adults and Kshs. 50/= ($0.6) for kids is payable (this is the resident rate).

At the parking we were welcomed by a group of young men who introduced themselves as local guides. Since most of our party of 9 (including 3 kids) had not been to the falls before, we chose one of them, named Kioko, and negotiated a guide fee of Kshs. 150/= ($2). He led us down a rocky path to the near side base of the falls where we could hire a crossing boat. We negotiated a rate of Kshs.300/= ($4.00) for the crossing. The experienced boat guide, using a long pole, guided the boat on a leisurely ride downstream, back upstream and across the river to a rocky bank on the far side. The view of the falls from the boat is extraordinary!

view of the falls from a boat downstream

Kioko explained that the 14 Falls are so named because there are 14 distinct waterfalls on the broad section of river.

We spent a couple of hours strolling around the rocks at the base of the Falls and enjoying the fresh air, breathtaking view and local flora. The kids, in particular, enjoyed scrambling up and down the massive rocks.

The base of the Falls is characterised by large boulders and the powerful sound of rushing water as it cascades down the 25-foot drop. A fine spray hangs in the air and keeps everything cool. There are lots of birds, and we spotted egrets, ibis and swallows that fascinated us with their agile aerobatics. The guides also entertain visitors by performing jumps (they call it 'diving') from the the top of the falls to the plunge pool below.

When we'd had our fill and were ready to go back Kioko informed us that there was an alternative option (at extra cost!) of returning to the near bank of the river on foot, instead of crossing by boat. Feeling adventurous we took him up on this. Little did we know what was in store!


The 'adventure' return option involved trekking up a steep rocky path to the head of the falls and crossing the river on foot by jumping from rock to rock - there are plenty of rocks that jut out of the water during the dry season. The fast-flowing river and VERY slippery rocks make this a challenging undertaking. We had to take off our shoes, roll up our pants and proceed with caution. The guides are masters of the river and help with the crossing, but it is NOT for the faint hearted... A couple of us took a spill and got soaked! Some local goat herders were at the river with their herds, and during the many breaks we took while crossing we were entertained by the sight of agile goats leaping from one rock to another.

Guides help with the crossing

When we crossed back we found fruit vendors selling very sweet miniature pineapples grown on farms in the area. After the drama of the crossing the fruit was a welcome refreshment for our parched throats.

All in all, the 14 Falls is a great place to spend a day!

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Nairobi National Park - African Spoonbill

19th September

Visited Nairobi National Park for a late afternoon game drive after work with a colleage from the office. It was very warm and sunny. The first significant animal sighting was a pair of Bohor Reedbuck (male & female) in a swampy area near the Kingfisher picnic site.

Male Bohor Reedbuck in swamp

As we drove on we encountered a pair of crowned cranes with an immature in tow.

Crowned Crane

The highlight of the drive was spotting an African Spoonbill in the flesh (feather!?) for the first time ever! A quick check of my birds field guide confirmed that it was an immature bird as its bill and legs were horn coloured rather than red.

African Spoonbill - immature

Contented with this first sighting we decided to depart. The sunset over the dense forest in the western part of the park was a particularly appealing sight as we left.

Sunset over Forest

-Ends-